Tom Livingstone and I headed to Alaska for 7 weeks this spring. We climbed high on Mt Hunters North Buttress via the Moonflower before the weather forced us to retreat. After we made our way to 1400ft camp where we spent the rest of the trip. We waited out a few storms here and did some day walks to acclimatise, on the last one we summited Denali. We waited out more bad weather and after realising we wouldn't get any better weather on our trip, we went optimistically to go and try the Slovak Direct on the south face despite a mixed forecast. Alaska forecasts are more of a guideline anyway, we hoped it would be wrong and be better than it said. The forecast was wrong, unfortunately the forecast went the other way and got worse, resulting in us having to retreat from low on the route. That left us with a long walk out of the East Fork and back to 14000ft camp to retrieve our gear and head home.
Mt hunter North Buttress on the flight into Kahiltna base camp.
Tom on the Mugs start of the Moonflower. We had half a day of good weather so we went and climbed 7 pitches of the mugs start up to the prow. This was really usefully as when we tried the route a few days later we knew where to go in the dark and moved together, meaning we did these 7 pitches in less than half the time we had taken the other day.
Tom approaching the base of the Prow.
Tom about to reach the belay of Tamara's Traverse.
Tom on Tamara's Traverse, thankfully a team had done this pitch the day before and cleared a large amount of snow off.
Tom starting up the third Ice band above most of the hard climbing.
Some moody weather building over Foraker it started snowing just after I took this picture. This coinciding with being told that the bad weather was arriving early made the decision to head down an easy one.
Packing bags as the sun sets on the North Buttress.
Tom dragging a sledge up Ski Hill on the way to 11000ft camp, I had been warned about how bad skiing with a sledge was but I can't stress it enough it really sucks!
We killed a day of mixed weather by digging a snow hole that turned put to be handy as a big storm arrived 2 days later and we had somewhere to cook and sit rather than being stuck in a tent.