Uisdean Hawthorn



The Aigullie Sans Nom


  Last week John McCune and I Climbed the Sans Nom Direct into the top half of the Gabarrou Silvy.  We chose this as it was a really cool line straight up the face and because we were limited by time as John had work on Sunday. It was good to climb a direct line up a big face that is only 1 hours walk from a lift station. It all went really smooth apart from some black ice near the top and my crampons kept falling of my boots. My LaSportiva Batura's toe bail has totally worn out after only 7 months use, very poor considering the retail price of the boots is £500. After a cold night on the ridge we were back in Chamonix by Saturday afternoon drinking beers and watching the Scotland vs Ireland rugby match. John being Irish seemed to enjoy this more than I did.



The line in red we took up the face.



John enjoying the last rays of sunshine on our first bivi below the face. 



Tackling the crud after moving together for the first half of the face. © John McCune




John above the mixed crux happy to be on the ice and not on the loose mixed ground below. 





Somewhere on the endless top section. 



John topping out onto the Sans Nom Ridge



Our wee bivi spot on top of the ridge. It was to cold to take another photo in focus!




Looking across to the Grand Jorasses to see if we could spot Pete and Tom on the Walker Spur



Me nearing the summit of the Aigullie Verte being reminded how hard it is to walk up hill at 4000m © John McCune



John's face sums up our feeling about not having ski's for the walk back to chamonix!